Biking, Birding (and Beer?) along Indiana’s Great Marsh
Indiana’s Great Marsh remains one of my favorite places for a quick daytime escape from urban confines. As a life-long Chicago resident, I have witnessed the changes taking place in the Indiana Dunes Lakeshore over about four decades, and the results are nothing short of astounding. Although Indiana’s Lake Michigan shoreline is short compared to other states with whom it is shared, and although it is dotted with industry, conservation efforts and their fruits are nowhere more evident than at the Great Marsh.
Located in Beverly Shores, Indiana, the Great Marsh has been heavily degraded due to local industrial activity, draining, some residential development, and subsequent invasion by non-native plant species. The area is very important to migratory birds. Its location at the southern end of Lake Michigan is where flight paths of many migratory species merge together as birds follow the shore of the lake. In recent years, National Park Service staff at the Indiana Dunes National Lakeshore have been actively re-establishing emergent marsh and sedge meadow wetland habitat within the Great Marsh at Beverly Shores by restoring the hydrology of the area and controlling invasive species.
Great Marsh Trails
There is a short official trail and boardwalk designated for viewing the marsh and for birdwatching. However, the marsh itself stretches for many miles along the southern edge of Lake Michigan, and there are many there are many ways one can extend the adventure and enjoyment of the area by walking or biking over lightly traveled adjacent roads, some of which have fallen into disrepair, and are no longer passable by car, the nearby Calumet Trail, or —in cold weather— even the Lake Michigan beach using fatbikes.
If you drive down from Chicago*, you can park at the Kemil Beach/Dune Ridge Trail parking lot off East State Park Boundary Rd. (Park passes are required for entry. Click here for details.) The Dune Ridge Trail itself is short at 0.7 miles, but climbing to the top of the ridge affords great panoramic views of the marsh, particularly dramatic in winter, when foliage doesn’t obscure its span. In calm weather, the sandy ridge top is also a good place to park yourself and enjoy a picnic, if you brought one (we like to bring along lunch and hot drinks on many of our day outings, and find that it really helps makes our brief escapes feel more vacation-like).
From the ridge trail you can easily access a network of old unpaved forest roads which are completely closed to vehicular traffic. These range among the dunes, and some lead to remnants of old homesteads that used to stand here, but have since reverted to federal ownership and nature. These make for a fun exploration on foot or cross country skis (we’ve seen people go by on bikes, but the legality of exploring by fatbike is unknown). You could easily spend several hours following the winding trails. Though it’s hard to find maps of these online, they are very well marked with signage posted at most intersections, and there’s not much chance of getting lost, as the trail network is adjacent to the Beverly Shores community to the east, and you will eventually be deposited somewhere along the stretch of Beverly Drive.
Views of The Great Marsh at Cowles Bog Trail
Make it a Mini-Tour
To turn this outing into a healthy 20+ mile bike ride, I suggest starting at the western end of the Calumet Bike Trail, that offers free parking. Though trail improvements are currently underway, large portions of it are unpaved and can be a bit rough. A hybrid, gravel or mountain bike is best, and I would choose a stretch of dry weather (in wet weather, this trail features man-eating puddles). You’ll take this trail to State Park Boundary Road, and make left, and continue to Beverly Drive. Although Google Maps makes it look like a through road, this street is actually closed to cars between this point and Broadway, and this is where you will come to the small handmade wooden foot bridge over a thin culvert in the wetlands, where you can sit in complete solitude, surrounded by the enormous marsh with only the sound of birds to keep you company.
You can continue on Beverly Drive toward Michigan City. East of Broadway, it’s open to motorized traffic, but though it’s narrow and has no shoulder, it’s known to be used by cyclists and you’re likely to encounter only sparse, slow moving cars.
That section of Beverly Drive has some of the most haunting, spare scenery near Chicago (or anywhere at all, IMHO), and offers an intimate, up-close look at the expanse of The Great Marsh and its dauntless return to glory. You’ll enjoy uninterrupted views of the marsh and fantastic opportunities for birdwatching. After a six decade absence, sandhill cranes are now again a common sight at the Great Marsh. You can see (and hear) them en masse during the spring a fall migration. In summer months, you may spot individual pairs, or — if you are patient and observant— you may be lucky enough to see a whole flock on tufts of vegetation deep within the marsh.
At the far eastern end of Beverly Drive, where it merges with Rte 12, you can take a detour to visit Mt. Baldy, or simply rejoin the new Singing Sands Trail (extension of the Calumet Trail) into Michigan City. This will take you past the imposing, funnel-shaped cooling tower of the energy company NIPSCO (no, it’s not a nuclear plant, it’s coal), and ride into town for coffee or lunch and beer before heading back.
Great local stops to visit:
Lakeshore Cafe across from Lighthouse Outlets offers tasty noshes, bracing drinks (they really know how to properly brew a nice cup of tea starting with quality loose leaves), and have a slightly rustic vibe with an extra cozy attic level.
Burn’em Brewing has a loud and open taproom , but the service is super friendly (gotta love King of the Hill reruns on one of their TV’s!), and the Walleye Fish and Chips is the best I’ve had anywhere (with walleye, as with steak —less is more). Pair with their trademark Hipster Juicebag for a nice mid-day treat.
Bartlett’s Fish Camp located at the end of Washington Park, where Trail Creek empties into Lake Michigan, has a humongous seafood menu with water views galore.
Lubeznik Center for the Arts brings together local and world-renowned artists in an intimate setting. For those of us easily overwhelmed by large museums, this spare, cameral gallery is a lovely place to slow down, and come face to face with individual artifacts.
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* This is also doable as a car-free day trip from Chicago if you drive or take the train to Beverly Shores. Of course, it’s also possible to cycle here from Chicago, and camping is available in both the State Park and the National Park Dunewood Campground facilities.